RENÉ LALIQUE (1860-1945) - Lot 523

Lot n° 523
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20000 - 40000 EUR
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Result : 40 000EUR
RENÉ LALIQUE (1860-1945) - Lot 523
RENÉ LALIQUE (1860-1945) "La Sylphe ailée" often called "La Nymphe ailée", the model designed circa [1898]. Yellow gold brooch. The wings and base of the nymph are in plique-à-jour enamel; light green, dark green. Each wing is set with 42 small old-cut round diamonds, some rose-cut - eight replaced - and modern-cut. Rose gold pin. Circa 1900. Signed LALIQUE, on reverse. Height : 4 cm - Length : 8 cm Gross weight: 14.39 g Slight cracks on several plique-à-jour reserves; 8 diamonds replaced, non-original and modern-cut. This work is on view until October 20 at the firm of expert Emmanuel Eyraud - 27 rue Saint-Dominique 75007 Paris - Tel. +33.(0)1.45.54.97.51 - @ : info@eyraud-expert.fr Public collection and related works : Lalique Museum, Hakone (Japan) - An identical model is kept in the collections of this institution under inventory number 755. Exhibitions and related works : - The Jewellery of René Lalique - Goldsmiths' Company, London, May 28 - July 24, 1987. An identical model presented at this show (no. 136). - René Lalique - National Museum of Modern Art, Tokyo, May 23-July 12, 1992. An identical model presented at this exhibition (no. 104). Bibliography : - Vivienne Becker - The Jewellery of René Lalique - Catalogue of the exhibition held at the Goldsmiths' Company, London (May 28 - July 24, 1987), Goldsmiths' Company, London, 1987. An identical model, catalog number 136, is reproduced on page 141. - Yvonne Brunhammer (ed.) - The collection of Lalique Museum, Hakone - Éditions Hakone Rarikku Bijutsukan, Hakone, 2005. An identical model is reproduced on the cover, as well as on pages 108 (detail) and 109. Bibliography and related works: Sigrid Barten - René Lalique, Schmuck und Objets d'art, 1890-1910 - Monographie und Werkkatalog - Prestel Verlag, Munich, 1977. Our work to be compared with the model referenced under catalog no. 567, reproduced on page 297. Public sales and related works - Magnificent Jewels - Christie's sale November 17, 1988, Geneva. An identical model shown under catalog number 490 and reproduced on page 221. - Important Jewellery by René Lalique - Sotheby's sale, November 20, 1996, Geneva. An identical model presented under catalog number 30. - Modern and Antique Jewelry - Audap Mirabeau sale, Hôtel Drouot, Paris, December 10, 2014. An identical brooch presented under catalog number 166. René Lalique, "the inventor of modern jewelry". Celebrated later as a master of Art Deco glassmaking, René Lalique (1860-1945) was earlier a major figure in jewelry, revolutionizing the Art Nouveau era. After an apprenticeship in Paris, he began working as a designer for prestigious houses such as Cartier, Vever and Boucheron, before striking out on his own. His talent as a designer, his technical virtuosity and his artistic sensibility quickly made their mark, so much so that he was soon recognized as [the inventor of modern jewelry] by Émile Gallé (1846-1904) and his contemporaries. Lalique conceives his jewels as total works of art; each piece is born of a reflection on form, light and color - elements he translates into drawings of the highest quality. He pays scrupulous attention to detail, imagining miniature architectures that transcend simple adornment. His intimate relationship with nature, developed in childhood, is asserted in his typically Art Nouveau creations. Jewelry of various types, faithful to the tastes of the time - brooches, pendants, dog collars, hairpins - and with varied decorations, mainly inspired by nature and the female figure, rendered in new materials. A visionary, he introduced semi-precious stones, glass, enamel, leather and mother-of-pearl to the world of jewelry - often in preference to precious stones, which had previously dominated jewellery design. His works, with their shimmering colors and organic lines, quickly won over the haute bourgeoisie and leading artistic figures such as Sarah Bernhardt (1844-1923). In 1900, at the Exposition Universelle in Paris, she was a resounding success: her modern jewelry, with its shapes, subjects and materials, broke established codes and fascinated a wide public. By bringing together the forms of nature, singularity of design and innovation, René Lalique elevated jewelry to the status of a veritable aesthetic manifesto, inaugurating a modernity that has endured throughout history.
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